Every season I say goodbye to the same kind of person. They come to Nepal broken in some quiet way, overworked, overscheduled, carrying something they cannot name. They spend two weeks walking. They eat rice twice a day. They sleep under seven blankets in a room with no heating and wake up at five in […]
Why Calling Every Nepali Porter a “Sherpa” Makes You Sound Ignorant
Stop calling every Nepali porter a “Sherpa.” Discover the true meaning of this ethnic identity and why making this common trekking mistake makes you look ignorant. The First Time You Realise You Have Been Saying It Wrong You land in Kathmandu, having watched every Everest documentary on Netflix. You know the names Tenzing Norgay and […]
Manaslu and Mustang: The “Mandatory Guide” Reality Check
You arrive in Kathmandu with a plan.Manaslu Circuit. Or Upper Mustang.You’ve trekked before. Alps. Pyrenees. Maybe the GR20. You’re not new to mountains or logistics. Then someone tells you, calmly, that you are not allowed to go alone. Not “recommended.”Not “safer with.”Mandatory. A guide. A permit. Paperwork. What follows is not the cost itself. It’s […]
Why Your Guide Smokes at 5,000 Meters and Why You Probably Shouldn’t
If you’ve trekked in the Himalayas, you’ve seen it. You are sucking thin air through your buff, focusing on your breathing, while your Nepali guide nonchalantly lights a cigarette on a knife-edge pass. Later that evening, he’ll firmly tell you that smoking and drinking are bad for altitude. The contradiction is stark. It looks like […]
Periods and Safety: A Woman’s Practical Guide to Trekking in Nepal
The most honest advice for female trekkers in Nepal focuses on the unglamorous logistics: managing Periods and Safety with no disposal bins, finding privacy on open trails, and adapting to a culture where these topics are private. Success lies in both practical preparation and physical fitness. For many women planning an adventure in the Himalayas, […]
Why You Should Stop Buying Plastic Bottles in Nepal
If you’re planning a trek here, you’ve probably read that you should avoid plastic water bottles. It’s good advice, but the reality on the trail is more complicated. In some places, it’s the law. In others, it’s a messy choice between what’s right and what’s easy. I’ve watched many trekkers from Europe grapple with this, […]
The Stray Dogs of the Himalayas: Friends or Foes?
You’re a day or two from the nearest road. The air is thin, your legs are tired, and the silence is deep. Then you hear the barking of stray dogs. It’s not the friendly bark from a backyard. It’s an echo that bounces off the valley walls. You round a corner, and there he is, […]
Diamox vs. Garlic Soup: Altitude Sickness Truth
You’ve just landed in Kathmandu. Your bag is packed, your boots are beside you, and you’re looking at a map. You’re fit. You’ve done your long walks in the Alps or the Scottish Highlands. Your mind is set on reaching those high passes. And everyone, from the guidebook to the man at the gear shop, […]
When Dal Bhat Becomes a Chore: Dealing with Appetite Loss at Altitude
You’ve seen it on t-shirts and in guidebooks: “Dal Bhat Power 24 Hour.” For the first few days on a trek in Nepal, it holds true. The warm plate of lentil soup, rice, spinach, and maybe a potato curry feels hearty and reliable. Then, around day seven or eight, something shifts. You stare at the […]
Tipping in Nepal: The 15% Rule That Is Making Locals Hate Tourists
You’ve finished your trek. You’re back in a lodge in Pokhara or Kathmandu, showered for the first time in weeks. You’ve settled your bill for rooms and meals, a straightforward transaction. Then, your guide and porter, who have become familiar faces over the last fortnight, are standing quietly by the door. There’s an expectation in […]