Combien coûte une expédition guidée AMA Dablam ?

réponse rapide

A guided Ama Dablam expedition costs $7,800 to $11,500 per person for 28 to 32 days in 2027 to 2030, including Sagarmatha National Park Permit, Ama Dablam Expedition Permit at $350, Kathmandu to Lukla round trip flights, full Sherpa climbing crew, fixed rope and oxygen, base camp services, and helicopter contingency. Premium operators with western guide support charge $11,000 to $14,000. The climb reaches 6,812 m and requires prior 6,000 m peak experience.

Répartition détaillée

Ama Dablam at 6,812 m is one of the most photographed peaks in the Himalaya, known for its steep granite ridge climbing and the hanging glacier called the Dablam. The standard Southwest Ridge route climbs Camp 1 at 5,808 m, Camp 2 at 6,075 m across the Yellow Tower, and Camp 3 at 6,400 m on the Dablam glacier before the summit push.

The expedition requires technical mountaineering skills including jumaring, rappelling, ice climbing, and fixed rope travel. The Nepal Mountaineering Association issues the climbing permit at $350 for spring and $175 for autumn, plus a $250 garbage deposit refundable on return. Most expeditions run 28 to 32 days including trek in, acclimatization, summit window, and trek out.

Helicopter evacuation is available from Base Camp at 4,600 m, but weather delays of 1 to 3 days are common. Carry $10,000 minimum evacuation insurance valid above 6,000 m.

Répartition des coûts / composantes

Qu'est-ce qui affecte la réponse

Three factors shift the price. First, season: spring April to May has stable weather but colder nights, while autumn October to November has warmer conditions but more summit traffic. Spring permits cost $175 more than autumn.

Second, Sherpa to climber ratio: a 1 to 1 ratio with summit bonus adds $2,800 to $3,800 but raises summit success from 60 percent to 85 percent. A 1 to 2 ratio lowers cost but increases turnaround risk if one climber is slow.

Third, oxygen strategy: most operators carry emergency oxygen at Camp 2 and Camp 3 for 4 to 6 bottles per climber. Skipping oxygen saves $600 to $900 but lowers safety margin on the Yellow Tower and summit day.

Conseils pour la réservation

Book 6 to 9 months ahead for spring expeditions, since Sherpa crews are shared across Everest and Lhotse expeditions in April and May. Request the assigned climbing Sherpa name and their previous Ama Dablam summits. Verify the operator has run Ama Dablam in the last 24 months.

Confirm the permit includes the liaison officer fee and that the officer accompanies the expedition to Base Camp. Verify the fixed rope plan covers the Yellow Tower and the Mushroom Ridge, the two technical cruxes. Request a written summit bonus structure for Sherpas.

Carry $5,000 to $8,000 in available credit for helicopter contingency, since most travel insurance reimburses rather than pays up front. Pack a personal medical kit with Diamox, dexamethasone, nifedipine, and a pulse oximeter.

Comparaison avec les alternatives

The Mera Peak Climbing expedition costs $2,800 to $4,200 for 16 to 18 days and reaches 6,476 m as a trekking peak without technical climbing. The Island Peak Climbing expedition costs $2,200 to $3,400 for 14 to 16 days and reaches 6,189 m with one technical section.

Choose Ama Dablam for true mountaineering with technical rock, ice, and altitude. Choose Mera for high altitude without technical climbing. Choose Island Peak for an introduction to glacier climbing. Choose Lobuche East for steeper technical terrain in less time.

Erreurs courantes à éviter

Do not attempt Ama Dablam without prior 6,000 m peak experience and a technical mountaineering course. The Yellow Tower at 6,075 m requires confident jumaring and rappelling on near vertical terrain.

Avoid operators that skip the liaison officer or the garbage deposit, since both are legal requirements. Do not skip oxygen to save cost, since the Dablam glacier section above Camp 3 has serac fall risk.

Skip spring departures without a 5 day summit window built into the itinerary, since weather delays of 3 to 5 days are common in late April and early May.

FAQ

What experience is required for Ama Dablam? Prior 6,000 m peak experience, a technical mountaineering course, and confidence with fixed rope travel, jumaring, and rappelling on near vertical terrain.

What is the summit success rate on Ama Dablam? 60 to 70 percent with a 1 to 2 Sherpa ratio, and 80 to 90 percent with a 1 to 1 ratio including summit bonus.

Quelle est la meilleure saison pour AMA Dablam ? Spring April to May for stable cold weather, and autumn October to November for warmer conditions and more summit traffic.

Is helicopter rescue available from Ama Dablam Base Camp? Yes, but weather delays of 1 to 3 days are common. Carry $10,000 minimum evacuation insurance valid above 6,000 m.

somm

A guided Ama Dablam expedition costs $7,800 to $11,500 per person for 28 to 32 days in 2027 to 2030, with premium operators charging $11,000 to $14,000. The climb to 6,812 m requires prior 6,000 m experience and technical mountaineering skills. Choose a 1 to 1 Sherpa ratio for the best summit chance.

conclusion

Ama Dablam is a serious mountaineering objective that rewards technical climbers with one of the most aesthetic summits in the Himalaya. Book 6 to 9 months ahead, verify the Sherpa crew and fixed rope plan, and carry full evacuation insurance. The cost is significant, but the experience and the summit views of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu are unmatched.