The Annapurna Circuit now shares its trail with jeeps and dust from 7 am to 5 pm. An honest look at where you can still find quiet walking, why winter is different, and what the purist needs to know before coming. The First Time a Jeep Honks Behind You You arrive in Nepal with photos […]
Manaslu and Mustang: The “Mandatory Guide” Reality Check
You arrive in Kathmandu with a plan.Manaslu Circuit. Or Upper Mustang.You’ve trekked before. Alps. Pyrenees. Maybe the GR20. You’re not new to mountains or logistics. Then someone tells you, calmly, that you are not allowed to go alone. Not “recommended.”Not “safer with.”Mandatory. A guide. A permit. Paperwork. What follows is not the cost itself. It’s […]
The Kathmandu Cough: Why You Feel Sick After Trekking in Nepal
Feeling sick after your Nepal trek? It’s not just you. An honest look at the “Kathmandu Cough,” post-trek pollution, and the jarring return to city life. You feel it the moment you step off the small domestic plane at Kathmandu airport. After weeks of breathing thin, cold, and incredibly clean air, the atmosphere in the […]