If you’ve trekked in the Himalayas, you’ve seen it. You are sucking thin air through your buff, focusing on your breathing, while your Nepali guide nonchalantly lights a cigarette on a knife-edge pass. Later that evening, he’ll firmly tell you that smoking and drinking are bad for altitude. The contradiction is stark. It looks like […]
Periods and Safety: A Woman’s Practical Guide to Trekking in Nepal
The most honest advice for female trekkers in Nepal focuses on the unglamorous logistics: managing Periods and Safety with no disposal bins, finding privacy on open trails, and adapting to a culture where these topics are private. Success lies in both practical preparation and physical fitness. For many women planning an adventure in the Himalayas, […]
Why You Should Stop Buying Plastic Bottles in Nepal
If you’re planning a trek here, you’ve probably read that you should avoid plastic water bottles. It’s good advice, but the reality on the trail is more complicated. In some places, it’s the law. In others, it’s a messy choice between what’s right and what’s easy. I’ve watched many trekkers from Europe grapple with this, […]
The Stray Dogs of the Himalayas: Friends or Foes?
You’re a day or two from the nearest road. The air is thin, your legs are tired, and the silence is deep. Then you hear the barking of stray dogs. It’s not the friendly bark from a backyard. It’s an echo that bounces off the valley walls. You round a corner, and there he is, […]
Diamox vs. Garlic Soup: Altitude Sickness Truth
You’ve just landed in Kathmandu. Your bag is packed, your boots are beside you, and you’re looking at a map. You’re fit. You’ve done your long walks in the Alps or the Scottish Highlands. Your mind is set on reaching those high passes. And everyone, from the guidebook to the man at the gear shop, […]
When Dal Bhat Becomes a Chore: Dealing with Appetite Loss at Altitude
You’ve seen it on t-shirts and in guidebooks: “Dal Bhat Power 24 Hour.” For the first few days on a trek in Nepal, it holds true. The warm plate of lentil soup, rice, spinach, and maybe a potato curry feels hearty and reliable. Then, around day seven or eight, something shifts. You stare at the […]
Tipping in Nepal: The 15% Rule That Is Making Locals Hate Tourists
You’ve finished your trek. You’re back in a lodge in Pokhara or Kathmandu, showered for the first time in weeks. You’ve settled your bill for rooms and meals, a straightforward transaction. Then, your guide and porter, who have become familiar faces over the last fortnight, are standing quietly by the door. There’s an expectation in […]
How to Use a Squat Toilet at 4,500 Meters Safely
Imagine you are at 4,500 meters. The air is thin, and the wind is cutting through your layers. You have spent the last six hours trekking uphill. Your knees are throbbing, and your legs are shaking from fatigue. Now, you feel your stomach rumble in a way that signals immediate trouble. This is the reality […]
Dal Bhat Paradox: Why Western Food is a Luxury and Local Food is Fuel
You sit in a teahouse dining room, wrapped in a down jacket, staring at a laminated menu. After days of walking, you crave familiarity. Pizza for €8. Apple pie. Spaghetti. Next to these are the local food dishes: Dal Bhat, Thukpa, Shyakpa. The choice seems simple, a matter of taste. But in the Himalayas, it’s […]
The Great ATM Famine on the Everest Trail
You land in Kathmandu. Your Monzo or Revolut card works perfectly at an ATM in Thamel. You get a stack of Nepali rupees, feel prepared, and fly to Lukla to start your trek. A week later, you’re in Namche Bazaar, watching another traveller tap their card uselessly against an ATM screen displaying a single line […]