Tukuche Peak Expedition – 25 Days

Arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport with private vehicle transfer to your hotel in Thamel. Evening welcome dinner and expedition briefing.

Full day expedition briefing and permit processing with the Ministry of Tourism. Equipment check and packing.

Morning flight from カトマンズ にする ポカラ. Afternoon free to explore Phewa Lake and prepare for the ジョムソム flight.

Early morning scenic flight from ポカラ にする ジョムソム (2,743m), between Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri. Short 2-hour trek down the Kali Gandaki valley to the apple-growing village of マルファ.

Full acclimatization day in マルファ. Optional hike to the Marpha monastery and apple brandy distillery. Afternoon equipment check and climbing briefing.

Climb northward from マルファ through sparse forest and alpine meadows to reach ヤクカルカ, a high yak pasture at 3,800m. First close views of タクチェ Peak.

Continue climbing above the tree line to reach Base Camp at 5,100m on a broad shelf below the north-east ridge. Establish full base camp with dining tent, kitchen, and communication equipment.

Full acclimatization day at Base Camp. Optional short hike above camp. Equipment check.

Traditional Buddhist puja ceremony to bless the expedition, followed by climbing training. Pack and prepare for the Camp 1 carry.

Climb the lower north-east ridge on fixed ropes to establish Camp 1 at 5,600m. Carry loads and return to Base Camp.

Climb to Camp 1 and establish the camp. Spend the night at altitude for acclimatization.

Climb the north-east ridge to establish Camp 2 at 6,100m on the upper ridge. Carry loads and return to Camp 1.

Climb to Camp 2 for acclimatization. Optional short climb higher. Return to Camp 1 for the night.

Descend from Camp 1 to Base Camp for rest and recovery. Review weather forecast and summit plan.

Climb back to Camp 1 to begin the summit rotation.

Climb to Camp 2 and establish the camp. Prepare for the summit push.

Pre-dawn start at midnight. Climb 40-50 degree snow slopes with some short ice pitches on fixed ropes, traversing the exposed summit ridge to the 6,920m summit. Spectacular simultaneous views of Dhaulagiri (8,167m) and the entire Annapurna range. Descend to Camp 2.

Continue descending from Camp 2 to Base Camp for celebration and hot meals.

Buffer day reserved for weather or acclimatization. If the summit was achieved on Day 17, rest at Base Camp. If summit was postponed, attempt again from Camp 2.

Second buffer day reserved for weather. タクチェ summit windows can be short due to high winds on the upper mountain.

Descend from Base Camp back to ヤクカルカ and continue down to マルファ village for hot showers, yak cheese, and a celebratory meal at the local bakery.

Short trek up the Kali Gandaki valley from マルファ にする ジョムソム. Final celebration dinner with the climbing crew.

Morning flight from ジョムソム にする ポカラ, then connect to カトマンズ. Check in to hotel and evening farewell dinner.

バッファーの日 ジョムソム flight delays or rest in カトマンズ. Visit CIWEC Clinic for a check-up. Optional sightseeing in Kathmandu Valley.

Private vehicle transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for your onward flight.